What is Die Struck Jewelry

"What is die struck jewelry?"

"Why is die struck jewelry unique?"

"Where can I buy die struck jewelry?"

"Is all jewelry die struck?"

"What type of jewelry can be die struck?"

These are just a few of the questions we are often asked when it comes to the Jabel die struck jewelry we sell. The reason why die struck jewelry is so desirable is because of its heirloom quality. The only way to understand how this quality is achieved is to educate yourself on the die striking process.

Question: How is die struck jewelry made?
Answer:Die struck jewelry is made through an extensive process that begins long before a style is ever produced. Jabel dies have been hand crafted for a century by expert metal smiths who work within one thousandths of a millimeter in every dimension including stone settings and relief details. The result is an engineering work of art! These precise calculations are carved into a block of steal forming what is called a master die. The master die is never used to create a single piece of jewelry, rather it is the template for all working dies. The working dies are the actual dies that are used in the die striking presses.
Once a design is brought to life in a set of dies it is ready to be made into a finished piece of jewelry through an extensive series of manufacturing steps. These steps include:
Alloying
Rolling
Die Striking
Assembly
Setting
Polishing
Finishing

Die Struck Jewelry Step 1: Alloying The Precious Metal

Alloying each of the precious metal (14KT: pink gold, green gold, and yellow gold, 18KT: yellow gold and white gold, and platinum} is a common first step in all jewelry making processes. However, alloying metal for the die striking process requires strict attention to proportions to ensure the metal has the strength and malleability necessary to withstand the strenuous die striking process.

Die Struck Jewelry Step 2: Rolling A Sheet of Precious Metal

Before the metal can be placed in a press it needs to be rolled into a sheet. The metal must first be heated to make it malleable, the ability to be shaped without breaking. It is then fed into a machine that rolls it flat. These two steps will be repeated until the desired thickness is achieved.

Die Stuck Jewelry Step 3: Die Striking The Precious Metal

The sheet of metal is placed in the press between the male and female dies while the press operator repeatedly strikes it with up to 50 tons of force. A style of jewelry can be made from one set of dies or several depending on the complexity of the design. Each strike compress the metal into a dense form that takes on the shape of the desired design. The density of the metal makes it exceptionally strong and is the key Jabel's heirloom quality.

Die Struck Jewelry Step 4: Assembling The Die Struck Pieces

Depending on the style being created, the various parts needed to make the piece must be hand assembled by expert jewelers who have the ability to precisely align the pieces. Mediocre assembly is rejected. Only flawless pieces of jewelry make Jabel's strict quality standards.

Die Struck Jewelry Step 5: Setting The Stones

Once the jewelers have finished assembling the piece of jewelry stone setters carefully cut the seats, or grooves in the metal where the stones will sit. Then the stone(s) are carefully placed into the seats and secured.

Die Struck Jewelry Step 6: Polishing

The next step is polishing. This will give the metal it's lustrous and radiant sheen and remove any burrs making the metal smooth. Texture, such as a satin finish are also applied in this step.

Die Struck Jewelry Step 7: Finishing

Depending on the style of jewelry being created some pieces of jewelry will be completed and ready for final inspection and stamping, while other pieces of jewelry will require further work. One example of this is hand engraved jewelry. This jewelry will require an artisan to engrave the a design into the metal using only hand eye coordination and simple tools such as a swivel block and carving tools.

Question: Why is die struck jewelry unique?
Answer: By using force to compress the metal into the desired shape a denser metal is formed. This metal is exceptionally strong and will withstand the test of time far greater than non-struck jewelry. This means the jewelry is far more resistant to daily wear and tear and will be around for generations to wear and admire. This also means

Greater security for your diamond and precious stones
Save on repairs and routine maintenance charges
Protect engraved details
An heirloom for future generations to remember you by
Where can I buy die struck jewelry?

At Bella's! We are the largest online store selling Jabel die struck jewelry. We sell Jabel because of it's 100 year history of providing unique heirloom quality jewelry designs to brides, grooms, and lovers of fine jewelry.

Question: Is all jewelry die struck?
Answer: Die struck jewelry was once a common jewelry making method, but overtime the industry turned to more affordable methods of jewelry making. While these other methods create a more affordable way of owning fine jewelry, they simply cannot compete with tried-and-true methods of die striking. Need proof? Simply look at Jabel's 100 year history of creating die struck jewelry! Second, third, and now even fourth generations of women are inheriting these stunning examples of early 19th century die struck jewelry.

Question: Is all die struck jewelry made the same?
Answer:No.  Not all die struck jewelry is made the same.  The 1925 illustration above explains the difference between Jabel's method versus other methods that were called 'finding rings'.  Finding rings have significantly more solder points, making the ring's structure weaker and more susceptible to damage caused by everyday wear and tear. However, the Jabel method creates a solid piece that requires far less solder points and is overall a structurally superior ring. 

Question: What type of jewelry can be die struck?
Answer: While even experienced jewelry store owners think of die struck jewelry as being limited to plain ring shanks, the bands of a ring, or stone settings, where a stone is set into, Jabel reminds us that die struck jewelry can be ornate, unique, and beautiful. It is a collection for passionate lovers of jewelry. Here are just a few exceptional examples of die struck jewelry:

Pink and Green Gold Jewelry

Pink gold and green gold carved engagement ring settings and wedding bands are made by individually striking the roses and leafs, hand assembling them, and hand applying engraved details to add greater dimension to the design.

Hand Engraved Engagement Ring Settings

Vintage style hand engraved engagement ring settings and wedding bands are made when artisans hand carve precious die struck metals. The density is ideal for retaining the engraved design.

Diamond Cluster Jewelry

Diamond cluster jewelry, such as the cluster classic solitaire featured here uses Jabel's signature die struck domed setting that, instead of setting the diamonds side by side to create a flat surface, they are set in a contoured pattern to allow light to more effectively pass through the stones creating a more brilliant design.